Radon Navigator™ FAQ
Understanding radon
These questions explain what radon is, how it affects health, and why it matters even when you cannot see or smell it.
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that seeps into homes from the soil. It is invisible and odorless, so you cannot detect it without a test.
Long-term exposure to elevated radon levels increases the risk of lung cancer. The risk is higher for people who smoke, but non-smokers can also be affected.
Because you cannot sense radon directly, testing is the only way to know your home’s level and decide whether to reduce it.
Estimates of radon-related lung cancer come from population-level models, not from individual medical records. Cancer registries in Utah and across the United States do not list radon as a cause of lung cancer, and doctors cannot determine whether radon caused a specific person’s cancer.
Researchers use large studies of exposure and risk to estimate how many cases might be linked to radon across an entire population. These estimates describe overall risk but should not be interpreted as confirmed case counts.
Even with these limitations, long-term radon exposure is a well-established risk factor, and reducing exposure is a practical way to lower overall risk.
No. There is no medical test, biomarker, imaging pattern, or diagnostic category that can identify a specific case of “radon-induced” lung cancer.
Clinical reports do not include radon exposure as a diagnostic factor, and cancer registries do not record radon as a cause. Many environmental and genetic influences contribute to lung cancer, so individual cases cannot be traced to a single cause.
Even so, lowering radon levels is a meaningful way to reduce long-term risk for you and your family.
Radon levels naturally fluctuate with weather, ventilation, and how you use your home. Wind, temperature changes, open windows, and heating or cooling systems can all affect short-term readings.
What matters most is the long-term average, not any single reading. That is why longer tests give a clearer picture of your true exposure over time.
Yes. Radon comes from the ground, not from the age of the home. New homes can have high radon levels, even if they are well sealed or energy efficient.
Some new homes are built with radon-resistant features, but these are not a guarantee. Testing is still recommended to confirm the actual level.
Some areas have more homes with elevated radon than others, but radon can vary widely from house to house on the same street.
Maps and regional data can suggest where radon is more common, but they cannot predict an individual home’s level. The only way to know your home’s radon level is to test it.
Pets can develop lung cancer, but there is no strong evidence that normal household radon levels — especially those below 4.0 pCi/L — meaningfully increase that risk.
Pets also have shorter lifespans, which limits the amount of radon exposure they accumulate. If a pet spends long hours in a basement, some families choose to reduce radon for peace of mind, but it is not a formal health requirement.
Testing your home
These questions focus on how radon testing works, when to test, and how to choose between different types of tests.
Radon testing measures the level of radon gas in your home so you can understand your long-term exposure and decide whether to reduce it.
Tests are usually placed in the lowest lived-in level of the home for a set period of time, then read by a lab or a digital monitor.
You can do an initial radon test yourself using a mail-in kit or a consumer digital monitor. These are widely available and can provide a useful first look at your home’s level.
For real estate transactions, complex homes, or when making major decisions about mitigation, many families choose a certified radon professional who uses calibrated equipment and follows national standards.
Short-term tests (typically 2–7 days) are useful for a quick snapshot, especially during a home sale or when you first learn about radon.
Long-term tests (usually 90 days or more) average out natural day-to-day and seasonal changes and give the clearest picture of your true exposure.
If a short-term test is elevated or borderline, many families choose to follow up with a long-term test before making a final decision.
Many families choose to confirm their result — especially if the first test was short-term, taken during unusual weather, or very close to a decision threshold.
A long-term test provides the most reliable average. National guidance also recommends retesting every two years, and after major changes to the home, even after mitigation.
Short-term tests capture a brief window in time, so they bounce around with weather, ventilation, and daily home use. Two short-term tests taken at different times can give different results.
Long-term tests smooth out this natural variation and show the true average. When results differ, the longer test is usually the better guide for long-term decisions.
Storms, strong winds, temperature swings, and unusual home use (like leaving windows open or closed for long periods) can all affect short-term radon readings.
If your test was done during unusual conditions, it is reasonable to repeat the test — ideally with a longer duration — to confirm the result before making a major decision.
Interpreting your results
These questions help you understand what your radon number means and how it relates to guidelines and decisions.
No. 4.0 pCi/L is a guideline for when to strongly consider mitigation, not a cliff where risk suddenly appears.
Levels like 3.9 and 4.1 represent essentially the same long-term risk. The EPA chose 4.0 pCi/L as a practical action level where mitigation is usually feasible and effective, not as a strict danger line.
The EPA recommends mitigation if your home’s radon level is 4.0 pCi/L or higher on a long-term basis.
Even levels between 2.0 and 3.9 pCi/L may pose some risk, and many families choose to mitigate for added protection, especially if someone in the home has other lung risk factors.
Radon is a long-term exposure risk, not an emergency like a gas leak or fire. You have time to understand your options, compare contractors, and make a thoughtful decision.
That said, it is reasonable to move toward mitigation within months rather than years once you have confirmed an elevated level.
Levels just below 4.0 pCi/L, such as 3.5–3.9, carry similar long-term risk to levels just above 4.0. The guideline is not a sharp boundary.
Some families choose to mitigate at these levels, while others choose to monitor over time and retest every two years. Your decision can reflect your risk tolerance, budget, and other health factors.
Levels between 2.0 and 4.0 pCi/L are not considered emergencies, but they are not zero risk. The EPA notes that there is no known “safe” level of radon — risk decreases as levels go down.
Many families in this range choose to mitigate if it is practical and affordable, especially if they plan to stay in the home long-term.
Mitigation basics
These questions explain what mitigation is, what it looks and sounds like, and what to expect from a typical system.
Mitigation is the process of reducing radon levels in your home, usually by installing a ventilation system that draws radon gas from beneath the foundation and vents it safely outside.
Most systems use a fan, PVC piping, and a discharge point above the roofline or away from windows and openings.
Most standard systems can be installed in a single day. More complex homes, multiple foundations, or special routing needs can take longer.
After installation, a follow-up test confirms that the system is working and that radon levels have dropped as expected.
Most systems add visible piping on the exterior or inside the garage, along with a fan housing. A thoughtful design can keep the system as unobtrusive as possible.
Contractors can often route piping through less visible areas or match colors to existing finishes. It is reasonable to ask how the system will look before you agree to a design.
Most radon fans are designed to run quietly in the background. When installed correctly, you may hear a soft hum near the fan or piping, but it should not dominate living spaces.
If noise is a concern, ask where the fan will be located and whether there are options to reduce sound in bedrooms or common areas.
Radon fans use electricity continuously, but they are typically similar to running a small household appliance.
In many homes, the added cost is modest. You can ask your contractor for an estimate of the fan’s power use so you know what to expect on your utility bill.
Choosing a contractor
These questions focus on how to select a qualified, ethical contractor and what to look for in their proposals.
Look for contractors who are certified, transparent about costs, and willing to explain their system design in plain language.
Ask how they diagnose your home, what standards they follow, and how they will confirm that the system is working after installation.
Some contractors offer rough estimates over the phone, but a reliable price usually requires at least a basic review of your home’s layout and foundation.
Be cautious of one-size-fits-all pricing that does not consider your specific home. A clear written bid should describe the proposed system, not just a flat price.
When comparing bids, look beyond price. Compare system design, fan location, discharge point, diagnostics, warranty, and post-mitigation testing.
A slightly higher bid that includes clear diagnostics and follow-up testing may offer better long-term value than a low bid with vague details.
Some contractors upsell components that are not necessary for a standards-based system, such as decorative covers or extra monitoring devices.
A well-designed system is usually straightforward. If an add-on is proposed, ask how it improves performance or safety, and whether it is required by standards.
A clear contract should describe the scope of work, system design, fan location, discharge point, warranty terms, and post-installation testing.
If these details are not spelled out, it is reasonable to ask for clarification or a revised written proposal before signing.
Costs & expectations
These questions address typical costs, what happens on installation day, and what to expect from system performance.
In many Utah homes, typical systems range from about $1,500 to $3,500, depending on your home’s size, foundation type, and system design.
Very low bids may cut corners on diagnostics, materials, or follow-up testing. It is reasonable to ask how a contractor arrived at their price.
On installation day, the contractor will drill one or more suction points, run piping, install the fan, and seal openings. There will be some noise and dust, but work is usually limited to specific areas.
Most families can stay in the home during installation. At the end, the contractor should explain the system, show you how to read any indicators, and describe the follow-up test plan.
Most systems significantly reduce radon levels, often below 2.0 pCi/L, but not every home responds the same way.
If levels remain higher than expected, the contractor may adjust the system, add suction points, or perform additional diagnostics. It is important to understand what level of performance is promised in your contract.
Many systems achieve levels below 2.0 pCi/L, but not all. The goal is to reduce radon “as low as reasonably achievable,” given your home’s structure and the system design.
What matters most is a substantial reduction from your starting level and a clear, documented follow-up test showing the new average.
After mitigation
These questions cover how to know your system is working, how often to retest, and what maintenance to expect over time.
Always request a post-installation radon test. A properly installed system should reduce levels below 4.0 pCi/L, and often much lower.
Visual indicators, such as a manometer or gauge on the piping, can show that the fan is running, but only a test can confirm the actual radon level.
National best practice is to retest every two years, even after a successful mitigation, and any time you make major changes to the home, such as renovations, additions, or HVAC upgrades.
Periodic testing confirms that the system continues to perform as expected over time.
Radon systems are generally low-maintenance. The fan runs continuously and does not require regular adjustments.
You should occasionally check any visible indicators, listen for unusual noise, and ensure that discharge points and piping remain unobstructed. If something seems off, contact your contractor.
Many radon fans last around 5–10 years, though some run longer and others may fail sooner.
Fan lifespan depends on the model, installation conditions, and how hard it has to work. When a fan fails, it will need to be replaced to maintain low radon levels.
Your rights & red flags
These questions highlight your rights as a homeowner and common warning signs to watch for when working with contractors.
You have the right to clear information about costs, system design, and expected results before you agree to work.
You are entitled to a written contract, a standards-based system, transparent pricing, and a post-mitigation test to confirm performance.
Red flags include high-pressure sales tactics, vague or verbal-only bids, unclear system design, refusal to provide references, or reluctance to perform follow-up testing.
Be cautious of contractors who promise specific numbers without diagnostics, or who discourage you from retesting after installation.
Start by reviewing your contract and any written communication. Share your concerns clearly and give the contractor a chance to respond and correct the issue.
If concerns remain, you can contact relevant licensing or certification bodies, consumer protection agencies, or local building officials to understand your options.
A properly installed radon mitigation system is often seen as a positive feature, especially in areas where radon is common.
Buyers may feel more comfortable knowing that radon has been addressed and that there is a documented test showing reduced levels.